These days Twister and I live on the island of Askøy, near Bergen. Weekdays are spent sorting, butchering, autopsying salmon, as well as other activities related to production of fertilized salmon roe (which in turn becomes salmon for people to eat). Much of evenings and weekends goes to preparing Twister for new adventures. Around April, we plan to head north along the Norwegian coast, hopefully catching some fish and some waves along the way.
As I work to make Twister ready for the ocean again, I would like to give a shoutout to the two previous owners
of Twister, Scott (2nd owner) and Vlad (1st owner) who put together a boat that crossed
the world’s big oceans (well not The Southern Ocean, nor the Arctic Ocean....yet) without a hitch, minimal preparation required by owner #3.
Here's my new
favorite poem:
The Second
Coming by W. B. Yeats
Turning and turning in the widening
gyre
The falcon cannot hear the falconer;
Things fall apart; the centre cannot hold;
Mere anarchy is loosed upon the
world,
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and
everywhere
The best lack all conviction, while
the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.
Rosendal
In June Alison joined Twister and LT for an exploration of the Hardangerfjord.
Hardangerfjorden near Jondal
A pleasant, 10-hour motor-sail from Sotra island (which had been Twister’s home since arriving Norway August 2013) to Rosendal gave us a taste of the pleasant sailing in the protected waters of Norway (which incidentally is whence the name Norway comes—the way north, ie the protected inside passage which allows one to sail a lot of the coast with only a few exposures to the open ocean. Or that’s my understanding of the etymology anyway ). One day is sufficient to explore Rosendal and the journey continued further into The Hardangerfjord to Jondal. Folgefonna glacier is a 15-minute bus ride from Jondal. There one can ski, walk, and climb on the glacier. 11.5 hours was the return journey to Sotra. Winds were variable but the final several hours we flew along with a southerly fresh breeze. The gear cable parted on departure from Jondal, so Alison stepped in to serve as a human gear shift, taking commands from the cockpit, allowing us to enter the slip at Fjell Båtlag under motor.
Viking Ship
July 4, LT
joined Captain Kari on the newly purchased and renamed Pyxie
Nautica (Pyxie Nautica being the new name) in Homborsund near the southern tip of Norway. She is a 32 foot Wauquiez Centurion (designed by Holman & Pye who also designed Twister) that it turned out, sails like a dream. The plan was to take a couple
of days to leisurely sail the 100-some nautical miles to Bygdøy in Oslo. Pyxie
has an electric engine which I had been pretty excited to see in action. An
~800 amp-hour battery bank gives a reasonable motoring range of 4 to 20 hours or more (we never got close to finding out for ourselves) depending on the speed. Having no pressing commitments and winds being variable and mostly light made for an 11-day sail to Oslo, with many stops along the way (not night sailing as lights were not yet hooked up) and with numerous mackerell caught and eaten. On the final day, there was wind and from the right direction, as we ran up the Oslo Fjord. We were pretty pleased with Pyxie running at 8 knots or so when a replica viking ship leaves us in the dust, zooming along at 10 to 12 knots. Later we see the same vessel at Bygdøy Folkemuseum. Emboldened by our success, we reprovisioned
and set sail for Sweden. We explored the
archipelago that surrounds Gothenburg (somewhat reminiscent of The Bay Of
Islands in NZ) for a few days, had a lovely visit with Mark and Maria of MareLiberum (who were now firmly settled in a lovely house in the country), then
explored the city of Gothenburg which is a most boat-welcoming city. We were allowed to tie up to the public docks at Eriksberg in the
heart of the city, for several days for no charge.
Next stop -
Hals (Denmark) at the eastern entrance to The Limfjord that cuts Jylland in two. No attractions of note, but a good place to reprovision. Onward through a maze of gargantuan wind generators to Øresund and Copenhagen. There a fellow patrolled every morning to ensure that all boats had paid the harbor dues. Strolled through Kristiania, went to Tivoli, walked about town. Head back
north after a few days. Duck into Torekov (Sweden) to avoid the worst of a gale then
continue next morning to Bygdøy without stopping. .
A wise man once said, "Perfect is the enemy
of good."
Blisters getting epoxy treatment
The refit (that's boat-speak for renovation or
refurbish(ment?)) is in full swing. I started with a week’s worth of sanding,
and several blisters (aka osmotic blisters which result when the outer layer of
the hull is not totally waterproof and acts like a semipermeable membrane…) were ground out then filled with epoxy.
I had planned to redo the whole gelcoat, but
several layers of old hard antifouling paint proved tougher than anticipated, so below
the waterline only the blisters and some spots on the bottom of the keel (where
the gel coat had been completely shaved off due to a few
groundings over the last 35000 miles) got the epoxy treatment. Above the
waterline, the worn, crazed, and chalky gelcoat was sanded then treated to two
coats of epoxy barrier coat (epoxy diluted with solvent and with white pigment
added) followed by two coats of white two-part polyurethane paint.
Looking better
Below the waterline, the hull got one coat of red
ablating (gradually wears off as you sail) antifouling paint (two coats near
the waterline. The waterline was also moved up ca 5 cm as the old bootstripe
was sometimes underwater when Twister was fully laden.
New antifouling paint below waterline
Polyurethane paint above waterline
The rudder had a rather long crack along the
wooden part that extends above the waterline to the tiller. I cut a v-shaped
trough along the entire crack with an angle grinder and after letting it dry
about a week laid up a couple of layers of fiber glass and epoxy resin. It
looks pretty solid now. Below the waterline I discovered the rudder had about a
liter of water inside it (not good), when I attempted to repair a blister. I
drilled a big hole all the way through to drain it and let it dry out a bit
(the inside is polyurethane foam like a surfboard). The next step is filling
the hole with polyurethane foam and then closing the holes with
fiberglass/epoxy. Then the rudder gets a couple of coats of epoxy barrier coat,
followed by antifoul below the waterline and polyuerthane above the waterline
just like the rest of the hull.
I abandoned (postponed) the plan of replacing the
through-hull fittings (where water comes in or out of the hull for engine
cooling, toilet, sink, bilge pump, etc.), but my dream of replacing the cutless
bearing was given new hope when I was able to get the
prop shaft out of the hull (made easier by the fact that I had already removed
the rudder). The old cutless bearing was quite worn and in an asymmetrical fashion, causing a lot of play in the prop shaft.
Old cutless bearing
New cutless bearing
Some internet searching revealed that the usual
method for removing the cutless bearing (which is more like a bushing – no
moving parts. It consists of a bronze tube lined with a semi-flexible polymer
with about ten channels running the length of the tube, allowing water to
lubricate the prop shaft up to the stuffing box) is sawing it in half from the
inside, collapsing the tube. In my case, the thing
came loose after one side had been cut.
Fortunately the boatyard a 1-minute bike ride away
had the right-sized cutless bearing in stock. While the prop shaft was out, I
decided to replace heavy-duty hose that connects the stern tube to the stuffing
box (aka stuffing gland. It is not a box or in any way rectangular) as well as
doing some work on the stuffing box (the locking nut had been stuck for a long
time, making adjustment of the stuffing box difficult. Due to access problems, I had thought this job impossible without removing
the engine, but only minor contorting was necessary to remove the four hose
clamps and pull the hose off the lip on the inside end of the stern tube (stern tube is just the hole in the hull that the cutless bearing sits in.
The stern tube has a lip on the inside end where a heavy-duty hose connects it to the stuffing box (which is the seal that keeps the water in the stern tube out of the boat, or at least mostly keeps it out).
Old stuffing
new hose and refurbished stuffing box
New stuffing
If anyone is still reading at this point...who wants to sail from Norway to California with me via The Beagle Channel or The Northwest Passage?
OK, more refit: The six chain plates where the shrouds attach have been rebedded with butyl tape instead of polyurethane or polysulfide caulk. I have big hopes for this butyl tape stuff. All the other deck hardware (genoa car tracks, stanchions, windlass, handrails, etc) will also be rebedded using butyl tape. New wiring, Bla bla bla...
Twister goes back in the water April 26. Hopefully the mast will be up soon thereafter. More photos from refit.
I'm in Punta Arenas. Internet seems to have become faster in PA since last time I was here. I managed to upload photos from Antarctica and The Beagle Channel.
Here is a map showing the journey of SY Imvubu from Durban, South Africa to Puerto Williams, Antarctica, Puerto Williams, and The Beagle Channel:
If you like hiking in
pristine nature without anyone else around, The Western Beagle Channel (and
Southern Chile in general) is for you. With a boat, you can access a lifetime’s
worth of hiking and mountain climbing. Not only can you access remote areas, you can
spend each night in the comfort of your own bed instead of setting up a leaky
tent and eating a pot of miserable gruel.
Seno Garibaldi, Beagle Channel
The sailing conditions are easier than The Antarctic Peninsula—there are several good
all-weather anchorages and ice is less of an issue, though some of the fjords
do get clogged with bits continually falling off the glaciers and apparentlysome
parts do freeze over in winter. Like in Antarctica, a good engine is nice to
have, though here is generally plenty of wind to sail. Going westward would typically mean a
lot of tacking through narrow canals into the prevailing westerlies.
Wildlife
is not as in-your-face as Antarctica. Some dolphins, whales, and seals but
birds are most prominent (including The Magellenic Penguins). Also Guanacos (llamas), foxes, beavers (not native).
Darwin passed this way almost 200 years ago
aboard the ship The Beagle, after whom the channel is named. There are no
natives left now, but many more boats than there were then.
Seno Ventisquero
Details:
After a couple of days provisioning,
refueling, and R&R’ing, Imvubu departed Puerto Williams around 0500 January
26 (just in time it turned out, as they closed the harbor an hour later due to
strong winds). We motored westwards into 25 to 35 knots of wind (which was
sufficient for a bumpy ride even in the protected waters of The Beagle Channel)
past Ushuaia and The Argentinian border of Tierra Del Fuego. Even with Imvubu’s
powerful engine, we were only doing 3-4 knots, sometimes less. By the afternoon
we were approaching our destination and turned north into Bahia Yendegaia (one
of the few fjords adjoining The Beagle Channel that don’t have a glacier
extending all the way to the sea). We anchored in Caleta Ferrari in front of
the remains of an estancia where now live Jose and Annemie. We don’t make it
ashore till the next morning.
Jan 27. They live what most westerners
would call a Spartan existence. Jose has a fishing boat, they have some horses,
and they kill the occasional wild cow. In addition, they take the occasional
(well, probably more than occasional this time of year—there were two other
sailboats and one fishing boat anchored when we arrived) passing sailor,
horseback riding. Their communication with the outside world goes via VHF and
HF radio.
Ralf, Jenny, and I arrange to go for a
ride in the afternoon. We are joined by three guys from Punta Arenas. Two of them are on the fishing boat doing
some scientific fishing of Centolla Crab (similar to Alaskan King Crab) and the
other is here to catch some wild horses and bring them back to Punta Arenas. We
ride northward to near Glacier Stoppani. On the way back, Ralf’s saddle comes
loose and he takes a graceful tumble. Fortunately only his pride is hurt.
In the evening, we are invited for asado
(barbecue) and Centolla. We had so far been unable to buy or trade any Centolla
from the fishermen we had met because it is not currently Centolla season.
Because of the high fresh-water content of this bay, the Centolla that the
survey guys have caught would not survive in their boats circulating tanks, so
we are forced to eat the delicious creatures. Fun evening with Jose and Annemie,
the fishermen, and French tourists/sailors. Turns out the fishing boat skipper
and I have two mutual acquaintances in Punta Arenas.
January 28. 04:00 Up anchor and
continue west into the northwestern arm (Brazo Noroeste) of The Beagle Channel.
We stop at what is said to be one of the best anchorages in the area at Caleta
Olla, where we anchor with one line ashore. Two other sailboats are there but
both move on in a couple of hours. Later, a French couple we met at Caleta
Ferrari show up and we have a bbq on the beach.
Wednesday January 29. Early AM. Up anchor.
Continue west in Brazo Noroeste. Reach Seno Pia before noon. We follow the
western arm of Seno Pia to the head where two glaciers flow into the sea. We
have lunch there then head back to Brazo Noroeste and continue west to Seno
Garibaldi where we anchor by Isla Pirincho with two stern lines ashore.
Thursday we take it easy.
Fri. 31st we Depart our
anchorage and continue north to the head of Seno Garibaldi to have a look at
Ventisquero (glacer) Garibaldi. Impressive. Lots of noise (not unlike thunder)
as glacier bits drop into the sea. Back
out of the mouth of Seno Garibaldi and further west to Seno Ventisquero where
we anchor in a lovely green nook with one line ashore.
Sat Feb 1. Nice hike up the hill by our
anchorage. Grand view of the glacier and Seno Ventisquero, but not The Pacific
Ocean—gotta get higher for that. Constant sound of waterfalls, occasionally
punctuated by the thunderous cracks of the glacier calving, sea lions barking,
birds chirping. Scenery very reminiscent
of southwesternNorway.
Sun Feb 2.
AM: Up anchor. Motor to head of
Seno Ventisquero and watch glacier shedding chunks and listen to the “thunder.” Motor south and out of Seno Ventisquero.
Check in with Alcamar Timbales (one of the many Chilean Navy radio
posts—typically manned by one navy dude and his family on a one-year posting.
The Chilean Navy keeps a close eye on the boats in the area. Yachts are
supposed to check in with them via radio every day, but much of the time they
are not in VHF range, so in practice that is not expected. There are about 20
approved anchorages (though the navy is known to turn a blind eye to the
occasional yacht that strays, especially if an excuse about bad weather is
made) between The Straits Of Magellan and Cape Horn and some of the canals and
straits are totally out of bounds—in particular Canal Murray which would make
the trip from Puerto Williams to Cape Horn shorter and more pleasant).
Head through Canal Thomson, across Bahia
Cook . Fortunately it’s a calm day in the Furious Fifties and a small
groundswell is the only indication that we are exposed to the open Pacific
Ocean to the southwest. Then into Brazo Sudoeste, the southwestern arm of The
Beagle Channel. A pod of Hourglass Dolphins
ride our bowwave for a few minutes. At Punta Divide where the Beagle Channel
splits, we turn north and return to Caleta Olla and drop anchor for the
evening. I make burgers and flan for dinner.
Mon Feb 3. Motor in almost dead calm back
to Puerto Williams. The End.
PS. The previous two times at Micalvi YC in Puerto Williams I had noticed a boat with a norwegian flag that appears to have been sitting there awhile. Turns out it is Jarle Andhøy's Berserk (the latest one of 4 or maybe more). This is the one he sailed from New Zealand to The Ross Sea to search for remains of the previous Berserk which sank there in 2011. I hear it's for sale, Kari.
The scenery is even more impressive (the adjective breathtaking is actually appropriate) than I remembered. Traveling on a (relatively) small boat allows up-close and personal encounters with icebergs and wildlife and you can go where you want to go (on a private yacht). I would highly recommend visiting Antarctica by yacht. Crossing The Drake Passage (renowned in sailing lore for strong winds and big waves) is not such a big deal when you have the luxury of waiting for a good weather window (a 35 ton steel boat doesn't hurt either), and the weather along the Antarctic Peninsula is actually quite calm much of the time (at least in summer, and in winter you couldn’t get here on a yacht on account of the ice). People talk about the challenging sailing conditions, and I guess they are but not much more so than some other places. I suppose the biggest challenges are the dearth (love that word, it comes from dear) of good all-weather anchorages, the ice, and that some of the areas are not well charted/surveyed.
Penola Strait
There are no trees in Antarctica and almost no plants (on land)--just a few patches of moss and the odd clump of grass where there is exposed rock. 99% (just a number I made up but probably not far from the actual number) of the land is covered by ice. There is lots of wildlife and it is "in your face" as one charter yacht skipper put it--that is to say it is near and abundant (in the summer) and most of the wildlife is still relatively unafraid of humans. Penguins (the 3 one typically sees are Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Adelie) are what one sees most of, followed by seals (Crabeater, Wedell, Leopard, and Elephant), and finally whales (mostly Humpbacks). There are also some flying birds--shags, sheathbills, and even gulls.
The Antarctic Peninsula and South Shetland Islands is not exactly an unexplored wilderness anymore. There are numerous bases (some more scientific than others, but all of them serve the function of staking various nations’ territorial claims in Antarctica), and in the summer around 37000 tourists come--most by cruise ship, but some on the 12 or so charter yachts that operate out of Ushuaia, Argentina; Puerto Williams, Chile; and The Falkland Islands. The visitors’ center at Port Lockroy had 18 000 visitors last year. The cruise ships (and charter yachts) tend to go to the same places but the ships make an effort to avoid being in the same place at the same time. We encountered (or heard on the radio or saw on the AIS) 20 cruise ships, 12 charter yachts, 2 fishing vessels, 2 research vessels, and 1 Chilean navy ship.
To make a short story long:
Imvubu departed Puerto Williams 12:00
local time Sunday 29 December 2013. A fresh northeasterly breeze pushed us
through the eastern end of The Beagle Channel, Picton Pass, and finally
Richmond Pass. A smooth ride so far, as little swell gets into these protected
waters. Around 23:00 local time, in 40 knots of wind from the northeast, we
passed 23 miles east of Cape Horn and into The Drake Passage. Fortunately there
was not sufficient time and fetch for a big swell to build and conditions only became
more pleasant the further south we got.
By the next afternoon (Monday) we had a 12
knot breeze from the NNW and the sun was shining. Tuesday the 31st brought more of
the same and I took advantage of the pleasant conditions to practice celestial
navigation. Morning, noon, and afternoon
sun sights gave me a fix 3.5 miles off from the GPS, which I was pleased with. A
cruise ship on its way back to Ushuaia from Antarctica passed us in the
afternoon (one of three we passed in The Drake Passage). Ralf, Jenny, and I celebrated New Year’s Eve
at 24:00 UTC with a shot of Aquavit. I went to bed soon thereafter, as I would
be on watch in a few hours.
At 12:00 local time Wednesday the 1st
of January 2014, exactly three days out of Puerto Williams, we spotted
land—Snow Island in The South Shetland Islands.
A few hours later we were approaching Neptune’s Bellows, the entrance to
the Deception Island caldera, and spotted the first ice berg of the trip. By
19:00 we were anchored in Whaler’s Bay (site of the ruins from a Norwegian
Whaling Factory and later a British Antarctic Survey base) inside the large
crater of Deception Island. The cruise ship Polar Pioneer anchored nearby 30
minutes later, and the tourists were shuttled ashore to explore for a couple of
hours before they upped anchor and moved on. We kept anchor watches that night
as the bottom shelves steeply toward the shore in Whaler’s Bay. Thursday
morning we went for our own little explore among the ruins. Motor
yacht Hanse Explorer (well, ship is a more appropriate term since it is157 feet long)
showed up and took their guests ashore to join us for a look around. They moved
on after a few hours. Imvubu raised anchor after lunch and motored, past shuttered Spanish and Argentinian bases, to the NW
side of the Deception Island lagoon where we found a much more secure anchorage
in Telefon Bay, called Stancomb Cove. Penguins and Crabeater Seals inhabited
the shore. No anchor watch that night.
Friday morning we upped anchor and
departed Deception Island, followed by the Chilean naval vessel, Lautaro, which
had spent the night anchored in Fulmarole Bay on the NE side of the caldera.
Setting a course for the Antarctic Peninsula, we sailed due south across The
Bransfield Strait in a westerly breeze, sunshine, whales, and ice bergs. By the afternoon we were at the southern end
of Trinity Island and decided to check out what we later discovered is called Mikkelsen Harbor. Threading our way
through the ice bergs into a bay for which we had no chart was a little stressful
but also fun. We anchored near an Argentinian hut/refugio erected in 1954 on a small rocky
islet. A bag of mate (South American tea) and a few cans of food and a medical
kit were inside. Aside from that, the hut was not in great shape. Hundreds of
Gentoo Penguins inhabited the small rock the hut is on. They keep themselves occupied
by sitting on their eggs and stealing pebbles from each other’s nests (the
nests are made from small rocks). We can see across Orleans Strait to the mainland
of The Antarctic Peninsula.
Saturday the 4th, AM, finds us
motoring south in The Gerlache Strait in light winds and overcast skies.
Stunning, spectacular, etc. This landscape is something to see. Big, steep,
snow/glacier-covered mountains—the mainland of The Antarctic Peninsula to port
and numerous mountainous islands to starboard. In the middle is Imvubu,
penguins, ice bergs, and more whales. Ice bergs are like snowflakes in that no
two are alike--the possibilities of shapes and colors are endless. 20:00 local (Chile) time, tied up to the
grounded wreck of a whaling vessel on the east side of Enterprise island, home
to many Antarctic Terns.
Around 04:30 early next morning we are
rudely awoken by French charter yacht "Paradise" rafting up to us. We decide to move on
before they can get too comfortable. Our
destination: Paradise Harbor where 3
years ago I and the rest of the AMLR team enjoyed a few hours off from counting krill
and played around in the ice bergs and snow. The scenic route through
Wilhelmina Bay turns out to be well worth the extra couple of miles. Our second
detour takes us through Errera Channel. Also amazing. Not surprisingly both are favored routes for the cruise ships and charter yachts.
In the afternoon we reach the
appropriately named Paradise Harbor and anchor next to the Chilean Videla base. Several Snowy Sheathbills (funny, curious, charming--at least so says I-- all white birds, roughly the shape and size of a pigeon) fly over and land on our dinghy which is hanging on the davits.
No scientists there, only navy and air force personnel, but they are welcoming
and give us a tour of their facilities which are surrounded by a few thousand
Gentoo Penguins (including one albino) and their eggs. Motor to
south end of Paradise Harbor and check out anchorages by Argentinian Brown
Base. A northerly breeze is sending all the ice to this end of the harbor, so
we go back to anchorage in the lee of Videla Base.
Monday the 6th: Up anchor 6:00ish and take the long way back
to Gerlache Strait via the north side of Lemaire Island. Then sail south along
east coast of Wiencke Island, across Butler Passage into the spectacular
Lemaire Channel (1000+ meter mountains on both sides and less than a mile wide. Also on the cruise ships itineraries if ice allows).
Wind increases to 30 knots and we are going too fast through the bergy water.
Drop sails and turn on engine for increased maneuverability. Concerned we might
have to turn back due to ice, but we make it through and into Penola Strait.
More of the same with incredible mountains and glaciers to east and south. See
sailboat anchored on eastern shore. It’s charter yacht “Pelagic.” We continue to Ukrainian base, Vernadsky, on
Galindez Island, in the Argentine Islands group. Anchor in very cozy nook in Stella Creek (not a fresh-water
creek, just a narrow channel between the islands). Not enough room to swing at
anchor, so we run two shore lines from stern. Pelagic joins us 30 min later.
They just drive into the thin sea ice and take one line ashore to hold them in place.
Cool.
The next day (Jan 7) we get a tour of the
base along with Pelgaic crew and passengers (BBC folks making penguin doco) and later in the evening we’re invited to celebrate Christmas at the base.
Turns out Jan 6-7 is the Orthodox Christmas. Fun evening with singing, eating,
and drinking (the world-famous homemade Vernadsky vodka).
Morning of Jan 8 we depart Vernadsky and
head south into The Grandidier Channel but the ice soon becomes too much for us
and we make a U-turn. Coming back north we see the British RV/IB The James
Clark Ross. We call them on the radio and ask about the ice conditions further
south (where they’ve been, resupplying The British Rothera Base). Since
Imvubu’s satcom has stopped working, we also request the latest forecast. They
not only print out forecasts and ice maps, but give us fresh bread, fruit, and
milk. Continually mesmerized by the scenery. Vow to come back with own boat.
We take French Pass westward toward open
ocean as recommended by James Clark Ross crew. We see amazing bigass icebergs
and patches of sea ice. Decide to call it a day and find a nice nook to anchor
on the southside of Betbeder Islands (with one line ashore as the cove is too
narrow to swing at anchor). I cook pinnekjøtt and turnips (traditional
Norwegian Christmas food) which is well received by Ralf and Jenny.
Jan
9: In our continuing quest to get further south we cross Southwind Pass and
attempt the inside route (Grandidier Channel area) again but the ice is too
much. We get to 65°34’ S before having to turn around. Spend the night trying to get south on the outside
but as we get further west, we are forced northwards by the ice. Abandon plans
to reach Antarctic Circle. Come back into sheltered waters via French Pass and
anchor at Vernadsky again (PM, Jan 10). There we find French charter yacht “Paradise”
(same one that woke us at Enterprise Island) and we have another fun evening at
the base with The Ukrainians and French tourists.
11 Jan AM we head north through Penola
Strait and Lemaire Channel. Just as amazing as when we came through here
southbound. Again dodging bergs and growlers. Southbound Cruise Ship "Ocean Diamond" passes us and gives us a toot from their horn. From Lemaire Channel we head
through Butler Passage to Neumayer Channel and drop the anchor at Port Lockroy
where there was aBritish Antarctic Survey base which is now a visitors’ center
and gift shop (yes, in Antarctica. In fact, every base we visited has a gift shop). Port
Lockroy is also on the itinerary of most of the cruise ships that go to
Antarctica. We fail to get anchor to set 3 times. Try a different spot. Anchor
sets but then drags in the middle of the night as wind picks up to 30-35 knots.
Reset and drag twice then finally take a line to shore and hope the wind doesn't change direction too much.
northbound in Penola Strait
12 Jan. The inner bay and preferred
anchorage which was full of ice when we arrived has been cleared by the
northerly wind, so we move there—better holding, better shelter, and room to
swing at anchor.
13 Jan. Hunkered down at Port Lockroy in northerly wind. 4
other yachts (all charter) also here. Quick trip ashore then back inside
Imvubu.
Jan 14 – winds have calmed down and we
motor the 18 or so miles to the US (NSF) base Palmer Station and tie up as
charter yacht Sarah W. Vorwerk leaves. Bow line to bolt in front of station and
stern line to bolt on Bonapart Pt. We are invited ashore for tour and dinner. Get
reacquainted with Dave and Carolyn who worked on the NSF (National Science
Foundation) ship N.B. Palmer when I was aboard counting krill in August 2012.
Ca 40 people work at the base: scientist and non-scientists, like carpenters,
who keep the base functioning. I drop off a CV just in case.
Jan 15. Blizzard at Palmer Station.
Visibility less than 100 meters, so we will stay put. Even a dinghy trip to the nearby
penguin and elephant seal colonies is out. Clears up in afternoon but dinghy
motor is questionable so no shore trip.
Jan 16 AM. Depart Palmer. Motor through
Bismarck Strait. Sunny and calm. Good day for photos. Turn left and up Neumayer
Channel, past Port Lockroy. Farther north in channel, pass southbound Brazilian yacht, “Franternidade.” Cross Gerlache and enter Paradise Harbor between Bryde and Lemaire Islands. Head for Brown Base. Much less ice now and the big grounded berg is gone.
Anchor in secluded cove with spectacular scenery. Dinghy tour and later a
short swim.
Jan 17 Motor past Videla Base, through
Errera Channel, across Gerlache and up Schollaert Channel. Lots of whales.
Charter yachts, “Sarah W. Vorwerk” and “Golden Fleece” are going same way and everyone is enjoying the whale show.
Anchor in Melchior Islands.
Jan 18. Move around to other side of
island into cozy channel between islands. Sarah is there and Golden Fleece show
up later. Dinner on Sarah.
Jan 19. Up anchor and head for Drake on
Sarah’s heels. Soon pass her. Easterly
wind 30, gusting 35, then gradually eases. Imvubu is in her element--trucking along. See 1/2 mile long ice berg--incentive to pay attention when on watch.
Jan 20. Light headwinds. Motor at 6-7 knots.
Jan 21. Motor then westerlies pick up.
Sail w/ full main and genoa.
Jan 22. Land ho! Cape Horn on the bow. We sail past the fabled cape and go up the east side of Horn Island and, conditions being quite calm, anchor in Caleta León on the E side of the island. As we dinghy ashore we are welcomed by the lighthouse keeper and his family (wife, 12-year old son, and poodle named Melchior). Guess what! Cape Horn has a gift shop. After a short visit, we up anchor as charter yachts "Pelagic Australis" and "Nekton" take their guests ashore. We motor through Paso Mardelsur between Herschel and Deceit Islands, across Nassau Bay and into The Beagle Channel via Goree and Picton Passes.
Jan 23. Motor through the night. I'm on watch for most of The Beagle Channel. Feel serene and also excited at the prospect of landfall. Arrive Puerto Williams around 7:00 AM, just after Pelagic Australis. Raft up along YC Micalvi. Drink Beer and Pisco Sours.
